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En estos tiempos de hipercomunicación bastaría la invitación de enviar a un amigo cualquiera de los textos que consideres interesantes algo redundante: demasiada comunicación, demasiados textos y , en general, demasiado de todo.
Es posible que estemos de acuerdo... pero cuando encuentras algo interesante en cualquier sitio, la red, la calle, tu casa, o un lugar escondido y remoto, compartirlo no sólo es un acto (acción, hecho) de amistad o altruismo, también es una manera de ahorrar tiempo a los demás (y de que te lo ahorren a ti (si eres afortunado) a costa del tiempo que tu has podido derrochar (emplear) y el gustazo de mostrar que estuviste ahí (o donde fuera ) un poco antes (el tiempo ya no es más el que era).
Comparte con tus conocidos aquello que encuentras, es evolución.
Reductio ad Perfectionem: What a Pigeon
12-02-06 Seleccionado por: Ali Pebre 

* David Kinch preparing his braised lettuce.
by Florence Fabricant

A ROAST pigeon changed David Kinch's life. And his career.

The good student David Kinch is the chef at Manresa in Los Gatos, Calif.
The year was 1984 and Mr. Kinch, a Philadelphian by birth, was working in a hotel kitchen in Burgundy, France. He saved his money so he could try the top restaurants in the region, and one day there he was at Alain Chapel in Mionnay, putting fork to pigeon, which was served with fresh peas and braised lettuce. The dinner was an epiphany.

"I was 23, and of course I knew everything," Mr. Kinch said. "But after that dinner I realized that all my training was wrong, that I had completely missed the point of what makes great food. I went back to my room and cried!"

At the time, Chef Chapel had earned three stars in the Michelin guide. "What this guy could do with a handful of peas and some lettuce, and how the purity of the flavors could be maintained and yet come together, was something I had never learned," Mr. Kinch said.

Mr. Kinch, now 44 and the chef and a partner at Manresa in Los Gatos, Calif., found another good teacher when he returned to the United States. He was hired at the Quilted Giraffe, Barry Wine's New York restaurant.

"While I worked with Barry the point about flavor was reinforced," he said. And he came upon another dish that he said he thinks about all the time: Mr. Wine's salmon glazed with a mixture of mustard powder, sugar and water.

"It couldn't be simpler, but it wakes up every element on your tongue," said Mr. Kinch, who serves a version of it at Manresa. "It's a great example of how sweetness can play a savory role when deftly combined with spicy or salty elements. And the mirrorlike lacquer finish that results when the sugar in the glaze and the oil are baked on is beautiful, too."

The flavors in the glaze have inspired other dishes that Mr. Kinch makes, including spiced dates he serves alongside foie gras.

There is nothing tricky about preparing either the braised lettuce that Mr. Chapel inspired or Mr. Wine's salmon. Finding the right fresh lettuce and adding plenty of butter and a drop of acid are the keys to success with the first dish; marrying sweet and spice against the richness of the fish does it all in the second.

Though many of Mr. Kinch's dishes have complex descriptions, it's easy to understand that, once on the plate, most rely on a single main ingredient with a simple accompaniment, like roast breast of capon with braised Italian chestnuts, and salt-grilled sardines on a warm potato salad. Sometimes he pairs two closely related elements that reinforce each other's flavors, like oysters with a briny-sweet sea urchin gelée, duck foie gras with stuffed duck neck, and green apple sorbet played off against spiced quince.

His is a pared-down approach. It was Auguste Escoffier who said "faites simple," keep it simple, and Mr. Kinch is an ardent disciple. For him a dish is complete not when he can add nothing more but when he can take nothing else away. "I think about Chapel when I approach my entire menu," he said.

Mr. Kinch has clearly learned that a chef can — and must — keep his important food memories alive while his palate continues to evolve and his cooking style and his techniques achieve the cutting edge.

This approach to cooking, which is what he said he missed as an honors culinary student at Johnson & Wales University in Providence, R.I., is a big reason that Manresa is considered one of the top restaurants in the Bay Area. In fact, fans come not only from all over Northern California, but from Chicago and even the East Coast, to dine on food prepared by a top chef who has not become a brand name.

Like many contemporary chefs, Mr. Kinch is obsessive about ingredients. Farmers in the area, the foothills of the Santa Cruz Mountains, sell the best of what they have to him, and he is a familiar figure at farmers' markets including the one at the Ferry Building in San Francisco.

He serves the braised lettuce with rack of lamb, preparing it only when he can get Little Gem lettuce, a compact baby Boston variety with tasty dark leaves. For the home cook who might not find this variety except at a farmers' market in season, Bibb lettuce can be substituted.

His menu at Manresa is chockablock with local ingredients like abalone, cardoons, pine mushrooms and horse mackerel — things that might be a challenge for home cooks to find. But it's the dishes built on those ingredients that have helped him build such a loyal clientele of food lovers.

A good thing. The restaurant opened in 2002, just as Silicon Valley "imploded," Mr. Kinch said. The preceding boom had made his previous restaurant, the small Sent Soví in nearby Saratoga, a success, so Mr. Kinch thought it would be a good idea to open a bigger place. But his timing was terrible: the opening also came on the heels of Sept. 11 and a downturn in tourism. Manresa struggled for months.

But having stayed the course, Mr. Kinch is happily established now, with reservations in great demand, in a place that serves dinner only five days a week, Wednesday through Sunday.

That schedule gives him time to visit farms and markets and to take his surfboard to the beach. Maybe that's why, in those moments when the look of concentration leaves his face, his blues eyes light up and he can still break into a boyish grin.

Publicado originalmente en www.nytimes.com


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