e-limbo, e-zine de informacion y analasis de modos de vida actual
 
23.04.2017 / Sesión no Iniciada 
_Placer

 _enviar articulo

e-mail emisor
e-mail receptor
Ayúdanos a evitar contactos automáticos
Anti Spam
Texto
 

En estos tiempos de hipercomunicación bastaría la invitación de enviar a un amigo cualquiera de los textos que consideres interesantes algo redundante: demasiada comunicación, demasiados textos y , en general, demasiado de todo.
Es posible que estemos de acuerdo... pero cuando encuentras algo interesante en cualquier sitio, la red, la calle, tu casa, o un lugar escondido y remoto, compartirlo no sólo es un acto (acción, hecho) de amistad o altruismo, también es una manera de ahorrar tiempo a los demás (y de que te lo ahorren a ti (si eres afortunado) a costa del tiempo que tu has podido derrochar (emplear) y el gustazo de mostrar que estuviste ahí (o donde fuera ) un poco antes (el tiempo ya no es más el que era).
Comparte con tus conocidos aquello que encuentras, es evolución.
Reductio ad Perfectionem: What a Pigeon
12-02-06 Seleccionado por: Ali Pebre 

 
* David Kinch preparing his braised lettuce.
by Florence Fabricant

A ROAST pigeon changed David Kinch's life. And his career.

The good student David Kinch is the chef at Manresa in Los Gatos, Calif.
The year was 1984 and Mr. Kinch, a Philadelphian by birth, was working in a hotel kitchen in Burgundy, France. He saved his money so he could try the top restaurants in the region, and one day there he was at Alain Chapel in Mionnay, putting fork to pigeon, which was served with fresh peas and braised lettuce. The dinner was an epiphany.

"I was 23, and of course I knew everything," Mr. Kinch said. "But after that dinner I realized that all my training was wrong, that I had completely missed the point of what makes great food. I went back to my room and cried!"

At the time, Chef Chapel had earned three stars in the Michelin guide. "What this guy could do with a handful of peas and some lettuce, and how the purity of the flavors could be maintained and yet come together, was something I had never learned," Mr. Kinch said.

Mr. Kinch, now 44 and the chef and a partner at Manresa in Los Gatos, Calif., found another good teacher when he returned to the United States. He was hired at the Quilted Giraffe, Barry Wine's New York restaurant.

"While I worked with Barry the point about flavor was reinforced," he said. And he came upon another dish that he said he thinks about all the time: Mr. Wine's salmon glazed with a mixture of mustard powder, sugar and water.

"It couldn't be simpler, but it wakes up every element on your tongue," said Mr. Kinch, who serves a version of it at Manresa. "It's a great example of how sweetness can play a savory role when deftly combined with spicy or salty elements. And the mirrorlike lacquer finish that results when the sugar in the glaze and the oil are baked on is beautiful, too."

The flavors in the glaze have inspired other dishes that Mr. Kinch makes, including spiced dates he serves alongside foie gras.

There is nothing tricky about preparing either the braised lettuce that Mr. Chapel inspired or Mr. Wine's salmon. Finding the right fresh lettuce and adding plenty of butter and a drop of acid are the keys to success with the first dish; marrying sweet and spice against the richness of the fish does it all in the second.

Though many of Mr. Kinch's dishes have complex descriptions, it's easy to understand that, once on the plate, most rely on a single main ingredient with a simple accompaniment, like roast breast of capon with braised Italian chestnuts, and salt-grilled sardines on a warm potato salad. Sometimes he pairs two closely related elements that reinforce each other's flavors, like oysters with a briny-sweet sea urchin gelée, duck foie gras with stuffed duck neck, and green apple sorbet played off against spiced quince.

His is a pared-down approach. It was Auguste Escoffier who said "faites simple," keep it simple, and Mr. Kinch is an ardent disciple. For him a dish is complete not when he can add nothing more but when he can take nothing else away. "I think about Chapel when I approach my entire menu," he said.

Mr. Kinch has clearly learned that a chef can — and must — keep his important food memories alive while his palate continues to evolve and his cooking style and his techniques achieve the cutting edge.

This approach to cooking, which is what he said he missed as an honors culinary student at Johnson & Wales University in Providence, R.I., is a big reason that Manresa is considered one of the top restaurants in the Bay Area. In fact, fans come not only from all over Northern California, but from Chicago and even the East Coast, to dine on food prepared by a top chef who has not become a brand name.

Like many contemporary chefs, Mr. Kinch is obsessive about ingredients. Farmers in the area, the foothills of the Santa Cruz Mountains, sell the best of what they have to him, and he is a familiar figure at farmers' markets including the one at the Ferry Building in San Francisco.

He serves the braised lettuce with rack of lamb, preparing it only when he can get Little Gem lettuce, a compact baby Boston variety with tasty dark leaves. For the home cook who might not find this variety except at a farmers' market in season, Bibb lettuce can be substituted.

His menu at Manresa is chockablock with local ingredients like abalone, cardoons, pine mushrooms and horse mackerel — things that might be a challenge for home cooks to find. But it's the dishes built on those ingredients that have helped him build such a loyal clientele of food lovers.

A good thing. The restaurant opened in 2002, just as Silicon Valley "imploded," Mr. Kinch said. The preceding boom had made his previous restaurant, the small Sent Soví in nearby Saratoga, a success, so Mr. Kinch thought it would be a good idea to open a bigger place. But his timing was terrible: the opening also came on the heels of Sept. 11 and a downturn in tourism. Manresa struggled for months.

But having stayed the course, Mr. Kinch is happily established now, with reservations in great demand, in a place that serves dinner only five days a week, Wednesday through Sunday.

That schedule gives him time to visit farms and markets and to take his surfboard to the beach. Maybe that's why, in those moments when the look of concentration leaves his face, his blues eyes light up and he can still break into a boyish grin.




Publicado originalmente en www.nytimes.com

   
 

Rating: 4 - 1 voto(s).

   
_COMENTARIOS
No existen comentarios.
Comentario / Comment:
  atención: para realizar comentarios tienes que ser usuario registrado.
        

_HistÓrico_Placer

23-10-10_ Brownswood Basement DRUM & BASS
28-02-10_ La lluvia en Brighton
18-10-09_ Entrevista sobre Post-Porno
17-05-08_ Una profunda tentación de vacío
31-03-08_ Donde las miradas matan (deseo, peligro)
25-09-07_ Gilles Deleuze. Conversaciones (1972 / 1990)
27-06-07_ Porno ergo sum
22-05-07_ Nancy... BAM !¡ BAM !¡
12-05-07_ 7 ( o la barra del siete)
26-06-07_ La Maqueta
02-05-07_ Dressed to kill: museum (Katz woman)
16-04-07_ Los Soprano: 5 temporadas en 7 minutos
05-04-07_ Lovecraft *Al otro lado del umbral
14-03-07_ Nouvelle Vague Porn
16-01-07_ La tortura de la Esperanza 
10-06-08_ ¿Por qué Godard?
21-12-06_ How to make a fake + F for fake  + Almost true
11-08-07_Reunión: John Cage, Marcel Duchamp, Música Electrónica y Ajedrez
02-12-06_ Baterías y algo más
27-11-06_ Taller Porno en Hangar
23-11-06_ El Madrid de la Petite Claudine
15-11-06_ Que mil nombres florezcan
10-11-06_ El Modelo de Pickman * Lovecraft
10-11-06_ ¿Es posible un Homer español?
05-11-06_ Tomie
01-11-06_ Otis Redding at the Whiskey A Go-Go
26-10-06_ Beck with the Flaming Lips
24-10-06_Beck + Gondry
17-10-06_Matsumoto Toshio * Documentarists of Japan # 9
11-10-06_links for 2006-10-11
08-10-06_ The Specials at Hurrah's in 1980
05-10-06_Andy Warhol's Silver Flotations * Willar Maas
09-12-07_ Love, peace & poetry: Turkish psychedelic music
30-09-06_Trial and Error * on Weight-loss drugs
18-09-06_Greil Marcus * The mystery of the woods
17-09-06_State of the Annotation
14-09-06_Los Fans del Hip Hop FOLLAN +
07-09-06_Goya reloaded
03-09-06_Pianoless Vexations (Erik Satie)
31-08-06_Podemos recordarlo todo por usted
16-08-06_James Joyce * Una nubecilla
11-08-06_Villa Landor
27-07-06_El hombre variable
25-07-06_No sólo las calorías
22-07-06_Adrià exalta las flores
27-06-06_Milton y su humano Satán
19-06-06_Pasiones geométricas
16-06-06_La cosmología es cosa de Dios... (H)Ala ¡!¡!
13-06-08_Kure Kure Takora (Gimme Gimme Octopus)
03-06-06_The View from the Bandstand
05-06-06_The sharing meal
11-07-07_ Frank Zappa * ...deciamos ayer
19-05-06_The Wall Street Journal of rock'n'roll'
06-06-06_How to Draw a Bunny
07-06-06_The fine art of revenge
12-05-06_Jean Seberg
09-06-06_Eric Dolphy * Hi-Fly
07-06-06_Bill Evans * in memorian
22-04-06_Tribeca Dining Guide: Where to Eat at Next Week's Film Festival
10-04-06_Gabriele d’Annunzio * De cómo la marquesa de Pietracamela...
09-04-06_Berlín, la vanguardia a pie de calle
05-04-06_Antisocial Networking Gets Hip * Snubster
01-04-06_Dos genios en el mercado
26-03-06_AgitPropStar
13-03-07_ Mozart and Salieri
05-03-06_Michel Montignac | Una muerte ligera...
01-03-06_Cultivating a Mystique
26-02-06_Después del baile
21-02-06_An Interview With Jose Orlando Padrón
17-02-06_Undécima serie, del sinsentido
15-02-06_When vice presidents shoot people
12-02-06_Reductio ad Perfectionem: What a Pigeon
11-02-06_El arte de la mirada silente / ARCO '06
07-02-06_Crystal Clear: An Interview with Shea Zellweger
07-02-06_The Way We Eat: Schnitzel on the Brain
26-02-06_El color que cayó del cielo / H.P. Lovecraft
29-01-06_Autenticidad por los cuatro costados / De la Riva
29-01-06_To tell... or not to tell
26-01-06_... la lluvia en Sevilla (si tienes casa) es una maravilla
27-01-06_Languedoc vs. Burdeos: ¡Guerra civil!
23-01-06_Ciencia y cocina se fusionan
16-01-06_Descargar la espalda con yoga
16-01-06_Sabores de Asia en tres dimensiones
10-01-06_Cookshop Charms With Gutsy Food, Fiery Rotisserie
05-01-06_Viticultura Bordelesa en el Duero
19-12-05_Como viajar de Londres a Madrid en el siglo XXI
30-09-05_El efecto de una relectura
11-09-05_La carta de Lord Chandos
10-08-06_Villa Landor
19-12-05_Como viajar de Londres a Madrid en el siglo XXI
29-09-05_El efecto de una relectura

_ORBITAL_Placer

_Servicios

test
Regístrate y disfruta de utilidades de administración y gestión de los contenidos de e-limbo*
Recibe las novedades en tu correo electronico.
El futuro está escrito en las estrellas... Horóscopo creado por J.G. Ballard y dedicado a todos vosotros.
Aplicaciones y herramientas necesarias para navegar y utilizar los contenidos del limbo electrónico e internet (www).
Artículos de e-limbo* en formato PDF preparados para viajar y aportar información allá donde estés. (y seguir salvando árboles)

_e-limbo * apoya

test

_Multimedia

_AUDIO >
Mais uma edição do podcast Música Livre para o Archivo Vivo, do Centro Cultural da Espanha/AECID. ...
_PODCAST >
Ante preguntas de oyentes y amigos, puedo responder ahora que Vía Límite continuará en Radio ...
_VIDEO >
SORPRESA¡!¡! An unreleased version of Talking Heads' "Psycho Killer" with Arthur Russell on cello
Optimizado: Firefox, Safari, Mozilla, Netscape, Konqueror, Explorer. Resolución óptima: 1024x768
ISSN: 1885-5229    Aviso Legal e-limbo.org*